Sticky things

[Keith Clements]

In Mike Allfrey's technical notes he lists the uses of various products. ---
Loctite Master Gasket 518
Loctite Master Gasket 515
Loctite Primer 7471
Penrite Copper Eze
Loctite 680 Retainer
Loctite Blue RTV (34248) sealant
Loctite Studloc 272
Loctite 569 Pipe Thread Sealan
Loctite JS1 Exhaust Joint Putty
Loctite 290 Wick-in Sealant
Loctite 471 cleaning and accelerator fluid

I have been going through these and looking at their specifications, to see if my assembly bench had them or an equivalent. Many of these products have a short shelf life whether left unopened or not and they are EXPENSIVE. But as I am likely to start rebuilding soon I am going to have to make some decisions.


Has anybody any thoughts on this subject?

[PJGD]

Keith,
Those are all good engineering products that are regularly used in assembly of modern engines and industrial machines. You can use them where appropriate (making sure that both surfaces are clean first) without fear of creating a bodge. Use the right product for the right application.

Loctite works by expanding in the absence of air and thus fills any clearance between components and in the process effectively joining them together. Joined components can be pressed apart, or you can use heat if you are desperate.

Philip

[ian Howell]

The Loctite range of thread locking materials are anaerobic. That is they set in the absence of air. They become an acrylic material that will soften with moderate heat so even if you use the wrong grade all is not lost.

It can be a bit of a bind if you use, say, stud lock on a nut!

Also, being anaerobic, they will not set if you leave the 'pot' open.

Other anaerobic sealants presumably work in the same way.

I don't know about the gasket replacement materials.

[Srenner]

Used 518 extensively for years. Seals well, fills gaps, takes a medium hard set (not like hylamar) and parts can easily be separated. Can be re-used as is in some applications as it will compress a little.

The Loctite silicone and sealants tend to be more viscous than other, cheaper brands, so perhaps they have more solids? THey seal very well and can be a real pain to remove. Currently, I use the cheapest silicone sealant I can find here called Pro Seal, as it works very well, although considerably thinner than Loctite. Keith Clements and I bought some in the parts store near his house prior to the Baltic tour.

Never tried the accelerators. When I'm in a hurry, I'll use Shoe Goo. It sets up in minutes, can fill a huge gap and tolerates hot oil for at least a weekend. Learned that one from a vintage motorcycle racer who used Goo exclusively on his old BSA!