1936 Jowett in Germany restore

[Jack]

Hi Marcel,

I can't help with technical advice, but really pleased with your progress.

Keep the photos coming, and I am sure that our more experienced members will help.

Are you coming to the Dutch rally in April 15? It would be great to meet you.

Jack.

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello Jack,

Thank you for invitation. Next Year I resolve a trip to england.

Do you have more informations about ihr dutch rally?
Isn´t the Jowett rally next Year?

Marcel.

[Tony Fearn]

Please, can anybody help me wherefore all those screws are?

Hello again Marcel.
1:- This holds the cast brass oil pressure relief valve to the engine casing. Perhaps two fibre washers will be useful under the two tubes when putting the PRV unit back on to the engine casing.

2:- This is a locking nut. When loosened it allows the screwed part to be turned in or out to alter the oil pressure of the engine. (Look at 'Oil pressure on a 1935 Jowett 7hp' in the pre-war section, by me on Sunday Aug 21 2011 for diagram).

3:- There should be a brass oil way plug in here. They are removed for cleaning purposes. Items 4, 7 and 8 are similar. Copper washers help reduce engine oil drips.

5:- This is the sump plug by which you drain the engine oil. Some people have bought a small round magnet that is a press fit into the sump plug to attract and hold any loose small metal pieces from the interior of the engine, until the next oil change. Again a new copper washer when replacing the plug will help to stop drips.

6:- This is the oil pump. I have just written about this in the pre-war section - topic - 'Twin engine identity' Monday October 20 2014.

7 and 8 are as 3 and 4.

A point to note is that the oil filter has 'TOP' stamped on the flange. If removed for cleaning, make sure that the 'TOP' is really at the top. It is obvious why when you examine the filter and where it fits in the engine.

Tony.

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello Tony, thank you for technical information.

again: I would clean the oil filter, I must take off the four screws (Picture No.6) , clean the filter and screw on.
Right?

Marcel.

[Tony Fearn]

Marcel,
Wrong. Number 6 is the oil pump that makes the oil go around the engine.

The oil filter is found at the bottom the left side of the engine as you sit in the car. It has only two nuts on it.

Look at this link which you've seen before:-

https://jowettnet/forum/download/file.p ... &mode=view

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello,
The Motor screws and Oilfilter are checked!

The next step is to change the ball bearings. In the picture you can see my attemp... the wheel boss isn´t going away from the axle Is that way right or wrong?

Kind Regards

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Marcel,
I think that you should be able to remove the hub with the puller that you show in the photo.
The screw needs to be very tight against the axle end and then hit it hard with a hammer.
If it will not come off the first time, try to tighten the screw again and hit with the hammer.
Perhaps a little heat using a blowtorch (lotlampe) on the hub will help.
Stand at the side and not in front of the puller when you hit it. It may come off very quickly.
The photo below shows an original Jowett puller.

Best wishes,
Tony.

[richard turner]

Before attempting the removal, replace hub nut and screw onto a number of threads. This will preserve the thread and prevent the possibility of serious injury.
Regards Rich

[richard turner]

To replace the bearings I think the axle has to be split. Remove the pinion unit and then the half shafts are retained by a circlip/pin in the crown wheel. All this from memory and so quite happy to be corrected! Rich

[1936xxMarcelK]

Hello,
Thank you for giving information.
The axial is dry and good, I doesn´t want to decompose the axle.

Can anybody tell me, is it possible to replace the bearing without decompose the axial?

Kind Regards Marcel K.

[richard turner]

Hi Marcel
I suggest you refer to the Pitman's Book of the Jowett of which earlier editions cover most mechanical aspects of the 30's and later cars.
Regards Rich

[Keith Clements]

In Gallery here.

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Marcel.

Removal of the outer bearing from the half shaft in the back axle can be difficult. Because of this you must change the bearing only if it is very necessary.

The inner ring of the bearing where it fits onto the half shaft is the place that will give most trouble. It will be very tight.

I have never dismantled a back axle, but looking at the photo in the Pitman’ s ‘Book of the Jowett’ here’s my suggestion for what it’s worth.

You have already removed the wheel hub and the key in the end of the shaft, so the end of the half shaft and the bearing are visible.

The half shaft runs through a tube. This tube is fastened to the differential housing (the aluminium ball) in the centre of the axle by six nuts on a flange.

Remove these six nuts and the whole tube assembly with the brake back-plate should slide off the differential housing in an ideal world.

The difficulty will come if the wheel bearing is tight on the end of the half shaft, and it probably will be.

Using a heavy hammer, and a strong piece of hard wood, or even a large copper hammer, hit the solid metal area around the back-plate (not the back-plate itself as it is very thin metal) to try to force the tube and the bearing off the end of the half shaft.

You will need to give strong blows with the hammer.

Another method that I have heard of does not need the removal of the axle tube, or if the tube does not come off because the bearing is tight, this method might work.

This method needs a MIG welder, and you will need to make some pieces. The welds will have to be VERY strong and ONLY THE BEARING should be welded to the rods, NOT the bearing housing or the axle shaft.

My drawing should be enough to show you how to do this method, but another word of warning: - before welding the thick plate to the rods (or bolts) you must position the centre bolt as it is shown in the drawing. You will not be able to fit it if you weld the plate on first.

The bolt AND the nut and flat washer should be on the inside of the thick plate so that when you unscrew the nut it will bear on the plate and and the bolt head will bear on the end of the half-shaft.

If the welds are strong and the plate is thick enough, the bearing should pull out of the housing.

I hope George or others will correct me if they can see any problems in my suggestions.

Regards,

Tony.

[1936xxMarcelK]

okay,
Thank you Tony, also for drawing.

The drawing shows the function of change the bearings.

Thank you!
There are problems to get the bearings?

Kind Regards

[Tony Fearn]

There are problems to get the bearings?

I think that the bearing in your axle will have an identification number on it.

If you contact Jowett Car Spares I'm sure they will be able to help with the supply of the bearings. Even if you do not have the identification number do not worry. They will know which bearing you need if you tell them the year of the car and where on the car the bearing is.

Tony,