Moises noises.

[Moises]

In the attached photo you can see the condition of the clutch fork. Why has it occurred?
How could I get a new clutch operating lever fork LHD Part No. 52345? It would be better to have the fork, ball and bearing set. Thank you very much for your help

[Moises]

[Keith Clements]

The cause is either too tight adjustment or somebody did not take foot off clutch pedal.

I have forks but do not know difference of LHD. Perhaps an RHD can be bent?

Or you could build up worn part with weld or braise.

[Moises]

Thanks Keith. I will try to repair the fork with welding. Do you think I can do it myself or do I have to go to a specialized workshop?

[Keith Clements]

You should be able to weld and grind to shape.

[David Morris]

HI Moises,

I really don't recommend that you could build up the end of the fork with weld. Yes, it may work for a short while, but the bit in contact with the release bearing looks to me to be a hardened circular pin, probably pressed into the arm of the fork.

As you have to remove the engine to gain access to the fork, I really think a different solution is worthwhile, to save having to remove the engine again.

The first solution, and what seems the best solution, is to for somone to send you a good LH fork.

The second solution is to have the fork rebuilt with ends from a good RH fork. I realise that I did suggest welding the ends from a RH fork, but looking at the photos again suggests to me that the fork might be cast metal, which really needs specialised attention when welding, such as pre-heating and using different rods or a TIG process.

The third solution would be welding up the ends of the existing fork, but as you can tell, I am not keen on this as a long-term solution.

Also, although the end result is a very worn fork, something has caused this damage? Rather than just replacing the fork and hoping it won't reoccur, I would have a very close look at why this has happened? The hole in the bell housing for the pivot pin might have become enlarged. The LH fork might be damaged. The clutch release bearing might be damaged, or even the wrong size. Or the pivot pin might be worn. Or the cup in the arm might be worn as well? If I was in this situation, I would order a good used fork ( even though it will probably be one for a RHD car ) and pivot pin from JCS, complete with a new release bearing and compare all these with what you have in Spain. I assume the differences between a RHD fork and a LHD one will be the shape? Can a good RHD one be heated in a gas flame and be reset to copy a LHD fork?

I hope all this helps?

Best regards,

David

[Keith Clements]

I have two, supposedly Jowett, release bearings in my stock which are clearly not. I mistakenly installed them to find they did not fit.

If you are concerned at the hardness of the weld or adding to the existing metal then take expert advice. I just doubt the part you require is available.

If the ball is sloppy in the recess then this would have caused the issue. In the past I shimmed the hole to solve the problem but this was a bodge and a bore and sleeve should have been done.

[Moises]

Thank you David and Keith. I have easily removed both fork pins. I think I can repair the part with welding, but I would need 2 new pins (Part No. 50847). Do you think they will be available in JCS?

[David Morris]

Hi Moises,

I have emailed Paul Beaumont at JCS, on your behalf, about the availability of the pins. I have asked him to reply directly to you. JCS are only open for phone calls on Monday evenings, but with the UK Rally only days away, I expect they will be very busy!

Best regards,

David

[Moises]

Listening to Keith, I've repaired the fork with welding. It has been relatively easy. The ideal would be to be able to have a pair of original pins. As a temporary solution I have adapted a 6 mm screw. in diameter with an Allen head that I previously reduced to 3/8". Maybe I should harden it by tempering.
Thank you very much David for your help and your management with Paul Beaumont. I did not dare to bother him because I know he is going through difficult times. I will wait for your news
Best wishes

[David Morris]

Hi Moises,

Well done! That looks a good solution. I might suggest a bit of weld on that nut, to make sure it stays in place?

Paul is ready to send you some pins, if you decide on a back-up.

All the best,

David

[Moises]

Thank you David
Not rush. I will wait to receive the pins before putting the engine in the car.

[Keith Clements]

52345 would match the part number as Javelin LHD lever fork. It's the only long fork I have. My guess is 3" longer than my 50846 Jupiter lever. No weird bends, just longer.

Cheers Scott . Could it be to line up with pedal it needed to be that long. But your idea of easier pedal may be the reason.about getting things to line up.

Keith.

You're likely right about getting things to line up.

Book shows LHD Jup as 53533. Will crawl under and take a look.

Looks like RHD Jup is same as RHD Jav.

Mmm, wrong lever for 30 yrs??!!

[Moises]

I have assembled the clutch with the new disc with 4 springs. I have tested its operation and I have seen that the fork has no travel. In order for it to come into contact with the bearing and release the disc, I have to advance the ball by placing a 5 mm shim in its rear part.

[Keith Clements]

viewtopic.php?p=20623#p20623

I did some checking of various friction plates recorded in this post. This might be the problem.
Otherwise it maybe the thickness of the clutch housing -gearbox gasket which should be paper thin.
Otherwise could be the setting of the pressure plate also explained in the thread.
Or possibly I have found the thrust bearing can be the wrong dimensions....all fitted to Jowetts with clutch problems!