Jowett Jupiter in Helsingborg, Sweden

[Keith Clements]

Hello Jowett friends!

Believe it or not but in a month my Jupiter 740 will be on the road!

OK, it depends of course on some uncontrollable persons, for example my upholsterer and the gentlemen who have to do the motor vehicle inspection.

To be quite honest I must make some reservations:

the motor is running in a too high speed, what to do?
the car has a bad vibration when I am driving I 20 miles/h;
I have a need of the latch that is holding the top to the windshield frame from the inside, photo;
there has been some parts as a rest. Does anyone recognise these parts, photo?
three of four of the covers are destroyed. What to do? Buy new once or ….photos can be viewed on
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/contribu ... efsson.htm
OR
http://keithclements.co.uk/jowettnet/dt ... efsson.htm


What is your opinion?

Best

Gustav
Gustav Josefsson [gustav.josefsson@telia.com]

[Keith Clements]

Hi Gustav,

This is great news indeed - congratulations on your excellent progress!

Regarding your "issues":

1. I must ask if you have re-bushed the bores which take the throttle shafts & fitted new shafts in both carburetors first to eliminate any wear (which results in additional airflow). Assuming that you have done so, and you have checked that there are no additional sources of air (e.g. vacuum leaks at one of the points where a vacuum connection is supposed to be, or at the Carburettor to head joints (4 places either dies of the spacers), and that the PCV valve is operating correctly, then you probably simply need to re-balance the carburetors to get them flowing the same and then reduce the throttle opening at idle using the stop screw.

2. Do you feel the vibration at 20 mi/hr through the steering or through the seat? Is it an engine related misfire or a suspension related vibration. Is the vibration at a frequency that is constant irrespective of engine speed and road speed? Assuming that the wheels have been balanced on the hubs already, (no-one can balance them on a balancer due to the wheel stud pattern) then perhaps your tailshaft needs a new Layrub coupling, or even the tailshaft itself is out of balance.

3. I assume that you have joined the JOAC, and if so, have contacted the Spares officer for help and placed a Wanted advert in our magazine. The best solution would be for someone to generate a detailed drawing of the missing parts of the hood clamp, and then have them made for you in Sweden.
The knurled knob you have photographed is different to the toggle arrangement in our Jupiter E1SA433R though, so I can't help with this data.

4. The two rectangular plates with three holes in each look like the spacers that fit between the door bottom hinge mounting plate and the lower surface of the body below the A-pillar.

5. Regarding the Budget lock key covers, or to give them their correct name "escutcheons" (P/N 55558), the correct teardrop shaped ones for a Jupiter are available from the JOAC and are used in 4 places (2 on the bonnet sides & 2 on the spare wheel compartment door). While the one in the photo is not the correct shape for a Jupiter (being round), this type are readily available in UK from specialists like Holden Vintage & Classic Spares.

Hope that this helps.

P.S. Another good way to obtain info to help with your Jupiter restoration is via the internet: use the JowettTalk forum, at: http://jowett.net/forum/ by posting your questions on the Jupiter page.

Best regards,

Andrew Henshall
Secretary & Registrar, Jowett Car Club of Australia

[Keith Clements]

A vibration at 20 miles per hour is likely to be wheel/tyre related.

Rear wheels can be checked by jacking up on secure axle stands and running car in gear up to the desired speed. Securely wedge front wheels to stop any car movement.

Front wheels can be statically balanced on the car as a rough check, or have them dynamically checked at a garage.

Some tyres can be badly out of balance or poorly fitted. Refitting sometimes helps. Wheel centres can also be cracked (around holes and pins that hold hub caps) and warped because they have hit a kerb.

If vibration is not the wheels try depressing clutch and see if vibration goes or try same speed but in different gear.

[Keith Andrews]

To check for vac leaks, spray a little "engine start" (either around inlet manifold, carb..particularly the butterfly bushes, vac advance canister/lines....a leak will show as an increase in rpm.

[Forumadmin]

I would not recommend this as an engine spark could ignite mixture and blow the can up in your face!

[Keith Andrews]

There is an old saying "many a carb tuneup is done by shanging spark plugs" not litterally..it means nefore touching a carb know the electrical system is working 100%.
2 ways to check ignition.
1/ touch the engine and with the other hand run it over all the leads. If your hair stands on end, and/or your eyes go wide there is a leak. If u have a bad.suspect heart, dont try it.
2/watch your ht leads at night in the dark, wiggle them around, watch for sparks.

I use double insulated, stainless steel spiral 8mm ht leads...these have a very nice fit into the orginal coil and dizzy cap.

Bottom line...know your electics are 100% ok before touching anything else. knowing this, and then spraying engine start is not a problem.
When spraying, do so very locally on a spot, it doesnt take much.
Due to the speed of the gas exiting the can, lack of oxygen in the can, the fright u get if ignition occurs and releasing the can button, the chances of the can going up are no more than the same happening when using a lpg or acetelyne torch.

[Forumadmin]

I use 1.5cm hosepipe and listen for leaks. This also helps locate whether it is throttle shaft or gaskets. It can also be used for exhaust leaks and all manner of engine noises from tappets to cam shaft. The carb nuts often come loose, as well as using Nylocks I add some thread lock, and a lock washer.