JowettTalk

How do you tell a series three timing cover from an early one?

Hey David:

The boss for the dizzy goes to two flanges. Double check what type dizzy you have.

Later Jupiters also had a shorter oil filler/breather, as the cap might foul the center grille. All the major pieces were machined as a piece, so swapping timing covers MIGHT cause an oil mist or drip. The bell housing can present this issue as well.

Now that all the seals are double-lipped neoprene, they can handle slightly non-contentric alignment way better than the old leather seals. If you are concerned for the front pulley, install a speedi-sleeve, as that will add .004 thickness to the O.D. and make the seal run tighter.

Hello David,
This all becomes quite involved and if you have a 'box of bits' it can be daunting. The Series III front timing cover has two flange lugs for the Lucas DM2 distributor. These lugs are at 90 degrees to the single lug for the DKY distributor. Also, there should be an adjustable peg for adjusting camshaft end float and then it becomes more involved.
Will get back on that,
Mike Allfrey.

Hello David,
REFERENCE: THE JUPITER FLOOR AND BATTERY COVERS
If my memory is correct, the front edge of the floor board is beveled from the top to match the slope of the heel well. I used marine plywood with two coats of marine varnish before painting the floor grey to match the chassis. Do not forget the cut off corner for the Panhard rod at the left rear bulkhead.
As for the battery covers, originally these were standard Lucas hard rubber covers fastened with, I think, with counter-sunk brass flat blade screwdriver nuts. In my case, I made a box type cover with a recess for carpet material where my touring toolbox sits happliy. The box lid is held down with two brass screws through end brackets and the floor.
On the CD-R I sent to you, there is a restored version of the Jupiter Owner's Manual, in there is an illustration of the battery covers that shows you what to look for at swap meets. The modern 6-volt batteries I get are of very similar size to the originals. Maybe Holden Vintage & Classic in UK stock replicas of the original?
Cheers,
Mike Allfrey.

Does anyone know what colour this Jupiter is?
There is also a light metallic blue I have seen Jupiters in, does anyone have the paint code or equivalent?

David,
Have you an ok steering wheel?
If not see "For sale".
Andy

To my best knowledge Jowett never issued a manufactures paint code and just simply used a name for colour - any surviving original paint formulas are of no use with todays paint mixing systems has the entire tinting banks are several generations onwards from what the original tinting banks were - therefore the original formulas tinting products are no longer available - I use historical colour records then a combination of mass spectrometer / colour chips along with sprayed test cards of the proposed colour to achieve the final result - but you need a good dedicated automotive paint factor that understands your requirements to start with

The car in the picture is Metallic Turquoise, the most popular color sold in the US. That car is currently in Ohio.

Chris is correct that paint formulations have changed massively since the 50's and even more so over the last few years with moves to water-based color coats and catalyzed clears.

A few years back, I sent a Metal Turquoise panel to this place http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/antique.html. After I explained it was original paint, the fellow told me THEY would determine if it were an original paint!

We used their formulation to paint Roger Steven's car.

My baby is back on four wheels, with new bearings & bush's she rolls beautifully.
I have temporally put the body back on to concentrate on the engine. Though I hope to have a colour test shortly.

This is one of the odd heads I have, note the lack of frost/welch/core plugs.
What is it ? A PA?

On other matters.
Most people recommend Ford Feista pistons, does anyone know what year or part number?
Is there anything better?
My son has suggested buying a programable Lucas 25D distributor as they are cheaper & easier to get than the Toyodenso unit used on early Honda Civics. Does anyone have an opinion?
25D were used on many BMC cars & seem to be a swap for the Jowett dizzie.

Reference 'on other matters:
You had better ask other Jowett Car Club Of Australia members about pistons to use. Personally, I have used JP Pistons over the years in a number of engines with good success, however, I have been told that JP quality control is non-existent, piston rings are from India (no good at all) and JP refuse to rectify 'known' problems. My Jupiter is fitted with JP Pistons (from Adelaide) and appears to be reliable. I have no idea what Ford Fiesta pistons even look like. Nor do I know if they need to be modified.
Reference the distributor, my Jupiter uses a Honda Civic and I had it modified by Performance Ignition Service in Nunawading or Mitcham in Melbourne's eastern suburbs, to match the Jupiter advance curve etc. Civic distributors are now as rare as hen's teeth - the Mini clubs grabbed them.
Holden Vintage & Classic in England ( https://www.holden.co.uk ) sell electronic versions of the Lucas DM-2 which can be modified to suit the Jowett. I am now too old to be messing about with contact breakers and condensers.
Performance Ignition Service manufacture their own 'Scorcher' brand and they can set up for a Jupiter. Not impressed by the Scorcher coil though, mine leaked its cooling oil and burnt out quickly.
My son set up a Ford Mondeo ignition system on his BMC Mini - all controlled from a sensor on the crankshaft pulley and a core plug where the distributor used to be. He set it all up on his computer and it works well.
Not much help, but . . .
Mike Allfrey.

Piston and liner sets are available from JCS UK . Perhaps I could bring a set over in April!

Can any one confirm Hillman Hunter intake valves are suitable for Jupiters.
I am having problems getting new valves , with our club looking at having some made.
Also is there a source of valve springs? Or a known alternative?