The SC rebuild was a little rapid towards the end and as well asthe water pump saga that hopefully is now fixed , there was also the spitting and coughing at high revs.
Well I think I may have found the culprit. The paper gasket at the top of carb float chamber was distorted. A new one has been fitted and I think it is fixed, but an extensive road test to the JCC Rally should prove that. Anyway a test before and after showed that now it is good up to 5000 rpm. I do not like taking it higher than that without load. This engine is the ex Pirelli Marathon engine so is used to high revs.
As I said in the topic the carbs on the SC are not standard being C1627. They are fitted with 120, 60 45, 25 jets rather than 120, 65, 45, 25 so currently I am looking for a pair of 65 jets to try.
Scott was asking about emulsion block differences. I do not know if they can be interchanged between all 30VM derivatives but they do look the same except for some having a brass tail soldered on.
Great SC rebuild.......
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Carburettor paper gasket and emulsion block
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Carburettor auto jumble
This topic pointed me at a spreadsheet where C1627 Zenith 30VM-8 was made for Commer Van 1390cc. So perhaps time to see what the differences are besides the compensating jet.
The main thing to check is the choke size which should be 27mm or larger if you have a well aspirated engine. This can be checked by looking at the little plinth (3mm square] just below the choke spindle in the barrel.
Going up to a larger barrel from 30mm to say 32 or 34 might suit an engine with larger pistons or sporty cam such as
F2006 Zenith 34VN V/hall Wyvern replaces VIG-11
3088R Zenith 34IVD Vauxhall VX4/90 1966/67
The next step up from there in the Zenith range seems to be a 36
3458 Zenith 36IVE Vauxhall Viva HC 1.6 1971/72
C1720F Zenith 36WIA-2 Sunbeam Rapier 1500 1959/61
HERE ARE SOME OTHER 30VM THAT YOU MIGHT FIND AT AUTO JUMBLES.
C686 Zenith 30VM-2 Austin 14hp Goodwood 36/37
C822 Zenith 30VM-2 Austin Light 12/4 35/38
C1171 Zenith 30VM Austin 28hp truck 1938/55
C1207 Zenith 30VM Jowett Bradford Van 1950/52
C1228 Zenith 30VM-6 Austin 10hp/A40 Devon/Dorset
C1314 Zenith 30VM Austin 28hp F/C Coach 1952
C1449 Zenith 30VM-7 Hillman Minx MkV11A 1954/57
C1450 Zenith 30VM-7 Hillman Husky '54/57
C1599 Zenith 30VM-8 Hillman Minx 1957
C1618 Zenith 30VM-8 Hillman Minx 1958
C1674 Zenith 30VM Hillman Husky L/comp 1959/60
The main thing to check is the choke size which should be 27mm or larger if you have a well aspirated engine. This can be checked by looking at the little plinth (3mm square] just below the choke spindle in the barrel.
Going up to a larger barrel from 30mm to say 32 or 34 might suit an engine with larger pistons or sporty cam such as
F2006 Zenith 34VN V/hall Wyvern replaces VIG-11
3088R Zenith 34IVD Vauxhall VX4/90 1966/67
The next step up from there in the Zenith range seems to be a 36
3458 Zenith 36IVE Vauxhall Viva HC 1.6 1971/72
C1720F Zenith 36WIA-2 Sunbeam Rapier 1500 1959/61
HERE ARE SOME OTHER 30VM THAT YOU MIGHT FIND AT AUTO JUMBLES.
C686 Zenith 30VM-2 Austin 14hp Goodwood 36/37
C822 Zenith 30VM-2 Austin Light 12/4 35/38
C1171 Zenith 30VM Austin 28hp truck 1938/55
C1207 Zenith 30VM Jowett Bradford Van 1950/52
C1228 Zenith 30VM-6 Austin 10hp/A40 Devon/Dorset
C1314 Zenith 30VM Austin 28hp F/C Coach 1952
C1449 Zenith 30VM-7 Hillman Minx MkV11A 1954/57
C1450 Zenith 30VM-7 Hillman Husky '54/57
C1599 Zenith 30VM-8 Hillman Minx 1957
C1618 Zenith 30VM-8 Hillman Minx 1958
C1674 Zenith 30VM Hillman Husky L/comp 1959/60
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Emulsion block
You can see there are two letter stampings on the emulsion block cover, but I can see no differences.
Either seems to be able to have the brass arrow attached. This arrow is to send the petrol into the air stream and thus improve the atomisation.
What looks like a hole at the bottom is in fact a depression used to lock the bolt in place.
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It has been a while. Oil seals
Well Napoleon has been used both by myself and Amy, particularly when Josephine was off the road, so a little bit of care and attention was due after its trip to Grantham.
Amy had complained of excessive petrol consumption going up, so there we noticed a drip from the carb. I installed an extra washer under the float needle valve which seemed to cure it. The mixture seemed OK. Amy still complained about the consumption so we checked for leaks. No smell of petrol and no leaks. The exhaust pipe colour was good and the same as the SA. Both cars had used about the same amount of fuel which I reckon was about 25 miles per gallon along mostly country A roads with some jams, lots of roundabouts and 30 mph.
I will check the plug colour once lowered on lift.
Then I did an inspection.
I noticed a slight binding in the steering caused by one track rod not freely rotating in all positions. I removed the grease nipple to easily retract the boot. The binding was cured by making up a 6 thou shim to replace one of the 10 thou shims under the socket at the end of the steering rack.
See the two diameter punches, shim stock, made up shim and track rod socket. I noticed a broken exhaust mount which I mended with a stainless Terry clip as a clamp. I also noticed a smear of oil out of the rear hub so off with the brake drum and replace the seal. I knocked out the old one using a large blade screwdriver and hammer with a light blow in an axial direction as I could not find a cylinder of the correct size to press it out. I made up a new paper gasket and smeared sealer onto it. Pushed in the new seal from stock but will order these next---
SKF CR18658 Double Lip Nitrile Rotary Shaft Seal 1.875x2.75x0.313 inch Whilst at it I checked my stock of all the oil seals
1.12x1.75x0.37 inch Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R21 / SC for the gearbox output
1.62x2.37x0.37 inch Nitrile Rubber Double Lip Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC Style for the timing cover
3x4x0.5 inch Nitrile Rubber Double Lip Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC Style for the rear crankshaft
I do not put new seals on the front axles as I have sealed for life bearings and no grease in the hubs.
The only other seal is the diff pinion which I imported from the USA.
I have yet to fix the erratic speedo and will first clean the cable and if that does not fix it get a new one.
There are also a couple of oil leaks on the engine that will need investigation.
Amy had complained of excessive petrol consumption going up, so there we noticed a drip from the carb. I installed an extra washer under the float needle valve which seemed to cure it. The mixture seemed OK. Amy still complained about the consumption so we checked for leaks. No smell of petrol and no leaks. The exhaust pipe colour was good and the same as the SA. Both cars had used about the same amount of fuel which I reckon was about 25 miles per gallon along mostly country A roads with some jams, lots of roundabouts and 30 mph.
I will check the plug colour once lowered on lift.
Then I did an inspection.
I noticed a slight binding in the steering caused by one track rod not freely rotating in all positions. I removed the grease nipple to easily retract the boot. The binding was cured by making up a 6 thou shim to replace one of the 10 thou shims under the socket at the end of the steering rack.
See the two diameter punches, shim stock, made up shim and track rod socket. I noticed a broken exhaust mount which I mended with a stainless Terry clip as a clamp. I also noticed a smear of oil out of the rear hub so off with the brake drum and replace the seal. I knocked out the old one using a large blade screwdriver and hammer with a light blow in an axial direction as I could not find a cylinder of the correct size to press it out. I made up a new paper gasket and smeared sealer onto it. Pushed in the new seal from stock but will order these next---
SKF CR18658 Double Lip Nitrile Rotary Shaft Seal 1.875x2.75x0.313 inch Whilst at it I checked my stock of all the oil seals
1.12x1.75x0.37 inch Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R21 / SC for the gearbox output
1.62x2.37x0.37 inch Nitrile Rubber Double Lip Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC Style for the timing cover
3x4x0.5 inch Nitrile Rubber Double Lip Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC Style for the rear crankshaft
I do not put new seals on the front axles as I have sealed for life bearings and no grease in the hubs.
The only other seal is the diff pinion which I imported from the USA.
I have yet to fix the erratic speedo and will first clean the cable and if that does not fix it get a new one.
There are also a couple of oil leaks on the engine that will need investigation.
Last edited by Keith Clements on Fri May 31, 2019 9:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Great SC rebuild.......
Since you mentioned the part number on the rear axle seals:
Front Hub SKF 16061
Timing Cover SKF 16085
Gearbox tailshaft CR 11138
Gearbox input shaft lip seal when the brass clutch guide has been machined on the inside CR 400254
A quick search for cross referencing seals should turn up the other manufacturers' part numbers, although IIRC, Federal Mogul owns just about everyone.
Front Hub SKF 16061
Timing Cover SKF 16085
Gearbox tailshaft CR 11138
Gearbox input shaft lip seal when the brass clutch guide has been machined on the inside CR 400254
A quick search for cross referencing seals should turn up the other manufacturers' part numbers, although IIRC, Federal Mogul owns just about everyone.
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Re: Great SC rebuild.......
And in turn, Federal-Mogul is now owned by Tenneco. . .
Philip Dingle
aka, PJGD
aka, PJGD
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